![]() It is a wonderful unit and works well, but it is really overpriced - and the unit you shared would have been better for my purposes, and cheaper as you pointed out at the time. I installed the "painless wiring 7 circuits 70207," under the hood. Lastly, I was looking at using: Bussmann CB185-100 100 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker - at the battery to switch off the whole system in case of overload - of course - maybe I should go with a bigger breaker but 100amps seemed enough - maybe. Thirdly, as you can see on the list I have looked at various circuit breakers and will replace the current ones with factory style. Secondly, I was going to use 6-Way Blade Fuse Box - Fuse Block for Automotive - for the switched - seems like there are more switched - and using the switched feed to feed the panel. Open to any and all criticisms, tweaks, and "slaps upside the head." lolįirstly, I was going to use: WATERWICH 4-Way Blade Fuse Box Standard Circuit Fuse Holder Box Block DC 12-32V with Waterproof Protection Cover for Car Boat Marine Trike Auto Car Truck Vehicle SUV Yacht RV Ship (4-Way) -I would install this for probably the constant circuits - using the constant feed wire to feed the block. No, I am NO EXPERT by any means - but I can work through this - with a little help from you all lol - and create something useful for others as well.Įxcellent, this makes it so simple - you are awesome. When I do this, my plan is to video it and take plenty of photos and creating a resource for others. From looking at what little wiring diagrams I have, and what provided (THANK YOU) and don't see a common hot and ground coming out of the original box - I am assuming it was/is just a holder not so much a distribution block except for the circuit breakers of course. ![]() This seems though like a band-aid - What do you all think about an all-out replacement? Has any done a conversion? I have been thinking about buss bars, constant and switch in the box. ![]() I thought maybe about mounting a fuse panel next to my current one and solder wires from the posts in the old one, then silicone it up, and put the connections over to the new box. I am a little afraid to remove the block and start a rewire. Right now I am looking at options from Blue Sea - but also looking at eBay and Amazon. I have decided to upgrade it to block fuses. I noticed that the fuse box, no matter how much I clean and work on it, seems janky as best. Went out and messed with the 64 tbird to try and get some thunder therapy. I have been mourning the loss of my mother and coming off of caretaking.having a hard time. If someone makes replacement fuseboxes or kits to rebuild a fuse box I am all ears as well. My goal is for it to be as modern as possible and CLEAN from corrosion. Maybe a later make of car? I am thinking about marine applications as well just case they get wet. I also know that a starter relay and ampmeter need to be fed as well.ĭo you all have any suggestions on where to start? I see all these Chinese boxes on eBay but I really wanted something solid. Also, the terminals for constant power (and those ring terminal wires that connect to them) need to be kept. I want to keep everything else where it is, just a box swap so to speak. I will keep the same breakers & relays and may mold/create a special box for them(or maybe somehow include newer breakers and relays into the new box. I want to upgrade to blade style fuses(put a nice clean box in) and replace my fuse box. I can/have cleaned it up, but I want the cleanest power possible. I have connectors in it that are rusty on the back and so on. As most of you know I have had some weird/strange/hacked up electrical issues with my 64. ![]() ![]() However, I can design things and think of projects. My mother is very sick and I am not able to work on the bird very much right now plug - state transfer inspection firstly so I can get it in my name. ![]()
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